restoration

Restoration Techniques

for those of us who can't find (or can't afford) 'mint boxed' items.

Cleaning Models

Grubby models can be cleaned with household washing up liquid (e.g. Fairy) and water using a soft cloth or a cotton wool bud. Also White Spirit (Turpentine Substitute) can be useful to remove sticky label residue sometimes found on models purchased from swapmeets, but BEWARE!

DON'T USE METHYLATED SPIRITS!! This can remove factory finish paints in a trice and abrasive cleaners such as Ajax should be avoided as they can abrade paint as easy as wink!

Whatever you use BE VERY CAREFUL when cleaning models and if possible try out your chosen method on an area which cannot be seen.

Removal of unwanted paint

If you have purchased a repainted model then paint removal can be accomplished using commercial model paint strippers or such things as oven cleaner (Mr Muscle) or drain cleaner (Caustic Soda Crystals) which are basically the same thing. The trade sells items such as Modelstrip which is excellent but contains basically the same chemicals. There are other commercial paint strippers, which claim not to harm plastic but the secret is to remove the unwanted paint and to leave the factory finish.

Commercial Paint Removers
Modelstrip

Is available by mail order from numerous outlets

Chameleon

This was marketed by Victor's of Pentonville Road, London but although they have now closed their London shop I hear that they have re-opened elsewhere. I assume it originated in America but don't know of any other stockist. It is said to be non-caustic and water-soluble. Furthermore it can be re-used. It is said to be completely styrene safe but they recommend Chameleon Gel for pre-1955 plastics and 'more delicate work'. In Jan 99 the prices were £6.99 and £7.99 respectively for an 8 oz bottle.

Paint Removal with oven cleaner

In a well ventilated area spray Mr Muscle (or other equivalents) onto the model being careful not to get it on your skin (wear plastic gloves and eye protection against splashes). Once the model is completely covered with the foam, place it in a plastic carrier bag (ex supermarket) and leave for an hour or two dependant upon the amount of paint to be removed. This will remove most enamel paints quite easily but keep a close eye on the model and don't leave more than two hours before washing off under a running tap. A toothbrush or cocktail stick can also be used to remove stubborn paint but this carries the risk of removing lettering or factory finish paint too. With care, this method can remove most enamel paints and leave the factory finish intact if you keep a close eye on things and wash off all residue.

Paint Removal with caustic soda

The use of caustic soda crystals means that you can adjust the strength of the mixture and put the caustic soda where it will be most effective. Mix the caustic soda with water in a plastic tub or similar (wear plastic gloves and eye protection again!). Be careful, it gets hot! Follow the instructions but vary the strength to suit. I usually mix with water and add a drop of washing up liquid to ease the surface tension and make it stick to the model. Then apply to the model using a cotton wool bud or similar since the stuff will eat paintbrushes etc if you're not careful. If you use a brush then wash it out in clean water as soon as you've finished. The time required to remove paint in this manner depends upon the strength of the mix, but if unsure don't leave for too long, you can always re-apply.

Paint Removal with brake fluid

Car brake fluid can also remove paint but takes no prisoners and will remove all paint including factory finish. If you have a model which you can later re-paint and re-letter etc then place in a jar or other receptacle. Fill with brake fluid and wait. It can take a day or two but this will take off most paint and not harm the plastic.

Paint Removal with nail varnish remover

If you have model with some unwanted paint then nail varnish remover can sometimes be used. Apply very carefully with a cotton bud to the affected area. Beware! - over zealous application to pre-painted areas can remove factory finish paints.

Paint Removal with lighter Fluid

I have heard that this is also effective but have not tried it myself. However I think if you follow the rules for nail varnish remover then you won't go far wrong.

Returning to a reasonable state

Once you've removed all the unwanted paint, that some little lad put on with a yard brush in 1960, you can consider re-painting where appropriate and applying new transfers.

However, I don't think many Tri-ang models can be fully restored especially if they've been overpainted since the paint seems to seriously affect the original plastic, but time and skill will tell. Some of the plastics seem to have a whitish 'bloom' after stripping which resists all treatment. (Unless you know different?)

Re-painting

Re-application of factory applied paint can be fairly straightforward using an airbrush once we've established the correct colours. These may not be the colours, which were originally applied, but their modern equivalent. I am attempting to put together a database of suitable matches, but don't hold your breath. Any info on paint colours or application techniques would be most welcome.

Transfers

This is a difficult subject. I know of some Tri-ang transfers, which were available recently in the UK but these were especially commissioned by individuals. I understand that transfers can cost upwards of £350 for 50 sheets to manufacture (Sept 1999) even after supplying the artwork, but if we get together I'm sure people won't jib at £7.00 per sheet.

There is scope for these to be made at home with a computer and suitable software, printers etc. See my page on transfers for details. Furthermore, if model car enthusiasts (e.g. Dinky and Corgi) can have transfers for their cars available at a reasonable price then why can't Tri-ang enthusiasts? It may be that we can get together with these folk and ask them nicely .....?

Re-Lettering

There are a few books on the subject related to scale model painting and lining and I'm sure the same techniques can be applied. If like me you want the item to appear like it did all those years ago, then it should be quite straightforward to accomplish this with a steady eye and a mapping pen with the right consistency of paint. I haven't tried this yet but watch this space.

Axle removal and replacement

Any tips? There were articles published in the late 1950's about the original cropped axle replacement/removal in magazines like the Railway Modeller but you will have to look very hard to find them these days. Otherwise pin point axles can be replaced with Lima equivalent if required.

Replacement of couplings

Araldite is as good as anything to glue replacements in place or swaging over the original metal mounting points where possible. Plastic supports can be replaced by microrod or similar. I am presently looking for eyelets and the tools to replace these fittings. There are no sources of new couplings but buying models which are beyond repair is one way of acquiring some.

Eyelet tools

Eyelet tools are available from places such as Squires or Proops or any model tool suppliers, and can be bought at model railway exhibitions. Couplings and bogies were held on by this method. It should be fairly straightforward to replace these items once the correct sizes are determined.